The Duffle Coat

Introducing a remarkable bit of outerwear for the swiftly dropping temperatures. 

Like many items of clothing ubiquitous among the civilian population (particularly outerwear), the duffle coat has its origins in the armed forces, specifically as standard issue wear for the British Navy. And just like its close cousins – the trench coat, the field jacket – the duffle has endured, thanks to a timelessly appealing style, and a reputation for being nigh-on indestructible.

It’s tempting to think that there’s little that can be done to improve on the original iterations of this style, but we had a few ideas, and so decided to throw our watch cap into the ring. By which I don’t mean we have attempted to reinvent the wheel. Rather, we have made a return to the standards of quality and manufacture that are rarely seen in modern duffle coats, and made a few subtle tweaks and changes to suit our own tastes (and hopefully yours, as well).

The coat is made from a double face wool, which is the best possible material for the job, but requires a considerable amount of extra work to shape into something resembling a coat, using a process known as ‘double-work’, which means that for each seam the cloth first has to be split open precisely, the adjoining panel inserted, then the split cloth turned and neatly closed around it. This is time-consuming and extremely labour-intensive, but provides a peerless finish, granting the coat clean lines and an elegant drape.

We sought out the heaviest splittable cloth we could lay our hands on – a remarkable 1250gsm charcoal wool – which ensures the finished product has the requisite heft one expects from such a garment. We then made subtle adjustments to the design: instead of a hood we opted for a bold, high collar which dramatically frames the face. We added toggles to the length of the coat’s front, right up to the collar, allowing for the utmost protection from the elements. And rather than wood or plastic which are commonly used for toggles, we plumped for the finest horn. 

And if we may briefly touch upon the subject of pockets, it’s worth mentioning that our duffle certainly has no shortage on that front. Three voluminous patch pockets are present on the outside of the coat, each fastening with a button to keep one’s valuables in place. A final button-up pocket is situated inside – another handy place to store essentials.

The duffle has a bit of volume in the body (as a duffle coat should) but maintains a neat line through the shoulder and sleeve, allowing it to be worn over a tailored jacket, or a chunky brushed Shetland jumper, depending on one’s mood. Simply put, it’s a tremendous piece of outerwear that ticks all the boxes: stylish, sturdy, warm and practical.

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