Local Hero
By Drake's
Oct 4, 2024
Pallapugno used to be the most popular sport in Italy, but that was a few years ago… back in the 16th Century. Today it’s mostly confined to a few small corners of the country: in the of South Piedmont and the West of Liguria. On a cold and clear morning in Alba, a picturesque sort of town surrounded by vineyards, rolling hills and lots of cobblestones, we meet Massimo Vacchetto, a hometown hero who happens to be a seven-time Italian pallapugno champion.
Empty in the late afternoon, Alba’s pallapugno arena has the atmosphere of something ancient and folkloric. Players occupy a 90 metre-long rectangular gravel pit, called a sferisterio, where, with intricately bandaged wrists featuring a tailor-made leather guard, they pummel a large rubber ball (here’s a video of Massimo at work, just in case) across great distances. It looks like a mixture between tennis, volleyball and baseball… played with a closed fist. Demonstrating for us, Massimo winds up his body. He spins and contorts and dances on the balls of his feet, Baryshnikov in green shorts, the ball soon sailing high and away towards the far stand.
“It’s a family business,” he says, smiling sheepishly. “I was about 5 when I started playing, and my father and brothers all have played, too. During the summer season, matches are usually conducted at night, to counter against the oppressive heat. Locals still crowd into the handful of stadiums that remain. “It can be quite intense,” says Massimo, now sat on a sun-bleached red chair. “The people know you well. When the stadium is full and the crowd are cheering, it’s an incredible feeling… exciting and nervous.”
For now, at least, the crowds are somewhere else. Massimo is training, building himself up for another run at a championship. Already a legend of the sport, he has an outside chance at being the most-decorated player of all time. “I am 30 now,” he says, “so who knows. I still want to compete and show that pallapugno is something special.
“It’s our tradition and our history.”