The Revue: A Return to Restaurants Special
By Lena Dystant
Jul 13, 2022
If you’ve spent one too many outdoor lunches clutching a glass of wine in a shivering hand, coat firmly buttoned, you’ll no doubt have breathed a sigh of relief with the recent return to indoor dining. While eating outside has its upsides, one of the wettest Mays on record was reminder that this is very much still the UK, no matter how much we tried to channel a Barcelona mood. So, with the options now seemingly endless, for this month’s Revue the Drake’s team attempt to simplify the decision making process with a top ten of our favourite London haunts, old and new. Happy eating.
West African influences, British ingredients, Michelin-starred Ikoyi packs astonishing, bold flavours into its elegant plates, more focused on innovation than authenticity - a truly special restaurant deserving of all the hype.
1 St. James’s Market, London SW1Y 4AH
Casual Soho bistro Blanchette throw their oversized windows open (extra ventilation points) and return to serving perfect plates of cheese, charcuterie, as well as more involved modern French cooking, with a smart cocktail list best experienced at the bar alongside a few gooey croque monsieurs.
9 D'Arblay St, London W1F 8DR
Family-run Mangal II switched from a full-on menu of Turkish ocakbaşi classics to something more precise and contemporary over lockdown. A bold move but one that has clearly paid of if the chatter around its reopening is anything to go by. Familiar flavours placed in bright new context, they’ve cleverly kept a handful of kebab classics: our go-to lockdown takeaway.
4 Stoke Newington Rd, London N16 8BH
Stalwarts St. John have been delivering very solid meat and more situations since 1994. Doors are once again open for crispy pig cheeks, mussels in cider and of course, chunky bacon sandwiches to rescue your Saturday morning.
26 St John St, London EC1M 4AY
94-96 Commercial St, London E1 6LZ
London boasts some incredible Ethiopian spots, North West in particular is spoilt for choice. Lalibela remains one of the best, little changing on its traditional, home-style menu since its launch in 1993. Absolutely addictive flavours with plenty of options for vegan visitors.
137 Fortess Road, London NW5 2HR
A brand-new menu every week, Pidgin aren’t afraid of a bit of hard innovation having vowed to never to repeat a single dish. As a result, nothing on the modern British set menu feels old hat. Whichever list lands in front of you, you’re in for a treat.
52 Wilton Way, London E8 1BG
A mid-pandemic opening, all-day brasserie Maison Francois lands in Piccadilly Circus and the first thing to note is that it has a dessert trolley. The menu is solidly French, leaning towards the traditional with dishes including oeuf en gelée and terrine de lapin. Did we mention they have a dessert trolley?
34 Duke Street, London SW1Y 6DF
Wood panelling, deep red carpets and black lacquer tables, Asakusa has stayed true to its very specific aesthetic for what must be nearing four decades. This characterful Camden restaurant has always been wildly popular thanks to its mix of authentic, homely Japanese dishes and freshly prepared sushi. The slow cooked pork belly and deep fried aubergine in dashi stock may change your life.
265 Eversholt St, London NW1 1BA
Cosy East London pub The Marksman serve on three levels: Ground floor pub, cellar, and upstairs restaurant (a colour-rich room designed by Martino Gamper). For those who prefer a little fresh air with their dinner, the first floor terrace remains bookable, a perfect spot for one of the best roasts in London.
254 Hackney Road, London E2 7SJ
A changing chalkboard menu of small sharing plates set in a former garage near Newington Green, Primeur is one for fans of pared back eating and cosy dinners by candlelight.
116 Petherton Rd, London N5 2RT